Planting a garden doesn’t need to be overwhelming. Whether you’ve got a patch of dirt behind your house in Wellington or just a few pots on a balcony, getting started is simpler than most people think. The key isn’t having the biggest space-it’s knowing where to begin and what to do next. Too many people buy seeds, dig holes, and then wonder why nothing grows. It’s not luck. It’s a sequence. Here are the 10 real steps that actually work, based on what grows reliably in New Zealand’s climate and soil.

1. Decide What You Want to Grow

Start with what you actually eat or love to look at. Don’t plant kale just because it’s healthy if you hate the taste. Same goes for roses-if you don’t care for them, skip them. Focus on food first: tomatoes, lettuce, beans, herbs like parsley and thyme, and zucchini are all easy wins. If you want color, marigolds and nasturtiums repel pests and bloom all season. Pick three to five things you’ll use. That’s enough for your first try.

2. Check Your Sunlight

Most vegetables need at least six hours of direct sun a day. In Wellington, mornings are often clear, afternoons can be windy and cloudy. Find the sunniest spot you’ve got. A south-facing wall gets the most light in the Southern Hemisphere. If your yard is shady, stick to leafy greens like spinach, silverbeet, or chard. They’ll survive with four hours. No sun? Use containers on a sunny windowsill. Herbs like basil and mint do fine there.

3. Test Your Soil

New Zealand soil varies wildly-from clay in Auckland to sandy loam in Canterbury. In Wellington, it’s often heavy and wet. Grab a handful of soil from where you want to plant. Squeeze it. If it forms a tight ball that doesn’t crumble, it’s clay. If it falls apart instantly, it’s sandy. Neither is ideal. The sweet spot? Soil that holds shape but breaks apart when poked. If yours doesn’t, don’t panic. You can fix it. Mix in compost or aged manure. Even a 50/50 blend of potting mix and native soil works for raised beds or containers.

4. Clear the Area

Pull out weeds, rocks, and old plant debris. Don’t just yank weeds-get the roots. Perennial weeds like bindweed or oxalis come back if you leave even a bit of root. Use a garden fork to lift them out. If the patch is overgrown, cover it with cardboard or thick newspaper for four weeks. It kills grass and weeds without chemicals. Then, dig it over lightly. You’re not turning the soil deep-just loosening the top 15 to 20 centimeters. Too much digging ruins soil structure.

5. Improve the Soil

This is where most beginners skip and wonder why plants look weak. Add organic matter. Compost is best. If you don’t make your own, buy bagged compost from a garden center. Look for the New Zealand Organic Certification label. Spread a 5-centimeter layer over the area and mix it in with a fork. For containers, use a quality potting mix labeled for vegetables. Avoid cheap “garden soil” from hardware stores-it’s often just dirt with no nutrients. Add a slow-release organic fertilizer like blood and bone or seaweed meal. Follow the package. More isn’t better.

6. Choose the Right Time

In Wellington, frost can hit until mid-October. Wait until the soil warms up. Stick your finger in the ground. If it feels cold below 5 centimeters, wait. Warm-season crops like tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers need soil above 12°C. Cool-season crops like peas, lettuce, and broccoli can go in earlier. Check the back of seed packets-they usually say “sow after last frost.” In our region, late October to early November is safe for most things. If you’re planting seedlings, wait until after the May Queen (the last expected frost date) in your area.

7. Plant at the Right Depth and Spacing

Planting too deep or too close kills more gardens than pests. Seeds usually need to be planted two to three times deeper than their width. For example, carrot seeds are tiny-just sprinkle them on top and lightly cover. Bean seeds? Bury them 2 to 3 centimeters deep. Always check the packet. Spacing matters too. Crowded plants don’t get air or light. Zucchini needs 60 centimeters between plants. Lettuce can be 20 centimeters apart. Use a ruler. Don’t guess. If you’re planting seedlings, dig a hole slightly bigger than the root ball. Gently loosen the roots if they’re tangled. Set the plant in, fill in, and press down lightly. Water right away.

8. Water Smartly

Watering every day is a mistake. Plants need deep, infrequent soaks. A quick sprinkle just wets the surface and encourages shallow roots. Instead, water slowly at the base of the plant for 10 to 15 minutes, two or three times a week. Morning is best-it lets leaves dry before nightfall. Avoid wetting the leaves, especially with tomatoes and squash. That invites fungal diseases. A drip hose or watering can with a long spout works better than a hose nozzle. Rainwater tanks are ideal in Wellington. Collect it. Use it.

9. Mulch to Save Work

Mulch is your silent helper. Spread a 5-centimeter layer of straw, bark chips, or shredded leaves around your plants. It keeps weeds down, holds moisture, and keeps soil cool. In summer, it cuts watering needs by half. In winter, it protects roots from frost. Don’t pile mulch against stems-it traps moisture and causes rot. Leave a little space around the base. Replenish it once or twice a year. You’ll notice fewer weeds and healthier plants without lifting a finger.

10. Watch and Adjust

Gardening isn’t set-and-forget. Walk through your garden every few days. Look for yellowing leaves, holes in foliage, or wilting. Early signs mean early fixes. Aphids? Spray them off with water. Slugs? Put out a beer trap or copper tape. If plants look tired, give them a liquid seaweed feed. Don’t wait until they’re dead. Keep a small notebook. Write down what you planted, when, and how it did. Next year, you’ll know exactly what works. Your first garden won’t be perfect. That’s fine. The goal isn’t perfection-it’s learning. And by the end of the season, you’ll know more than most people who’ve been gardening for years.